El Mafioso

How can I visit Italy and not mention the mafia? How can I avoid this subject when I am driving near cities such as Corleone, made famous by the Godfather, and hearing stories of ‘expensive concrete’, referring to its reinforcement with teeth and bones. We decided to avoid Naples because of the garbage “problem”, whereby the Camorra, the Naples based mafia in charge of garbage disposal (among many other enterprises), has closed down the city dump as a result of the discovery of their improper disposal of toxic waste. You can imagine the repercussions for the city of Naples, having to live in their waste for months, some resorting to burning piles of garbage in the street. When those involved include some very important political and influential people, the real solution is not an easy one, and most don’t expect an end to the problem anytime soon.

But this is only the tip of the iceberg. In a country where mafia has existed for at least 150 years, domination and suppression is a way of life. The different “Mafioso” organizations throughout Italy, the Sicilian Mafia, or Cosa Nostra, the Camorra (out of Naples), the 'Ndrangheta (from Calabria) and the Sacra Corona Unita (from Puglia), have infiltrated the economy to such a level that mob activity now accounts for the single largest sector of the nation's economy. With stakes in construction, high fashion, illicit drugs and toxic waste disposal, the Camorra alone has international reach.

This malign grip is something that everyone lives with, yet doesn’t talk about (omerta), especially to foreigners. However, there seems to be a change coming about. Last year, Roberto Saviano released an up-close account of the inner workings of the Camorra, shedding light on the Camorra’s chillingly significant role in the global economy. Shortly after the release of “Gamorra”, he was granted police protection and hitherto operates in relative obscurity.

After reading the translated version, I was shocked to discover just how deep the roots of the mafia permeated to the very core of Italy. Even though we had no personal encounters, I’m sure that by taking a ferry in Sicily, by buying clothes at an outlet store, and by enjoying the “garbage-free” zone of Tuscany, we were a lot closer to the mafia than we would like to think.

Sicilia

Sicily is a land unto itself, proudly different from the rest of Italy in its customs and traditions. Life is slower, tradition is respected, myths and legends of the past aren’t forgotten. Its culture is very much its own, with an Arab flavor that reminds us that Sicily broke away from the mainland of Africa, not Italy, millions of years ago. Its Greek heritage still lives, with Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples being one of the most memorable sights of the ancient world, having some of the greatest Greek ruins ever to be found.

Sicily has been inhabited since the Ice Age, and has had more than its share of natural and political disasters. Having been conquered by the Greeks, the Romans, the Vandals, the Arabs, the Normans, the Swabians, the House of Aragon and the Bourbons, you can only imagine the eclectic array of architecture found here. On top of the mass of invaders, Sicily has had to overcome a series of plagues, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and hardships. All this has resulted in a proud and colorful people that is decidedly 'Sicilian' before they are 'Italian' and a land that has deep archeological heritage every where you turn.

Baglio Lauria, Sicily

Baglio Lauria is an ancient Franciscan monastery that lies on the plateau of Campobello di Licata and dates back to the 18th century. In the 1800’s, the day after the unity of Italy, the Lauria family bought the farm and started growing almonds, olives and grapes. After beautiful restoration, Bagio lauria now serves as not only a farm, but as an incredible place to relax in the sunny Sicilian countryside, experiencing traditional cuisine and utmost relaxation. Thank you, Paulo, for some of the best wine, olive oil and Sicilian fare we’ve yet to enjoy!

Baglio Spano, Sicily

You know it’s going to be a special place when you drive through acres of vineyards along a bumpy, gravel road to get there. You know it’s going to be something incredible when you drive through wooden gates 30 feet tall dating back to the 18th century. Special and incredible barely describe Baglio Spano, an old wine cantina in western Sicily, once used as a summer home residence by the noble family Montalto-Spanò. Baglio Spano has found a perfect mix between old and new, having modern conveniences in a historical setting. As a jump-off point to Marsala and Selinunte, this is a great location to lounge on the beach or explore archeological parks and ancient cities. After experiencing Baglio Spano, I’d have to argue that eating breakfast and dinner in an orange grove makes the food taste even better, if that’s even possible!

Puglia

For many, Puglia is a gateway to Greece, for me, it is a well-kept secret. The farther south I go, the more authentic the country and its people feel. The terrain differs vastly from that of the north. Clear, turquoise seas that hold secrets of legends and heroes, armies and conquerors meet a rugged and majestic coastline of grottoes and caverns. Wind-twisted pines, rosemary, juniper and sage thrive near the coast, while inland, the rich soil supports orchards, vineyards and groves and groves and groves of olives. In fact, most of the landscape is olive trees, some over 1000 years old.

Trulli look as if they are out of a storybook. Built at least as early as the 13th century, the whitewashed limestone walls and conical fieldstone roofs utilize local materials in such a way that mortar isn’t needed. One theory as to why mortar isn’t used is that the Trulli, considered substandard peasant dwellings, had to be easily dismantled in case of a royal visit.
The center of the Trulli District, Alberobello, has over 1000 of these buildings.

Masseria Salamina, Puglia

Masseria Salamina is set back 7km from the Adriatic Sea in the Puglian “heel” of Southern Italy in a grove of olive trees dating over 400 years old. In the 1600’s, Joseph Salamina extended and fortified the farm buildings for protection from the Moors. The result today is an extraordinary structure that the current owners continue to restore, maintaining much of its original works to preserve its history and integrity.

Currently a working farm, the Masseria produces mouthwatering olive oil, balsamic vinegar, primitivo wine and jams and spreads. These products are only a small part of the delectable cuisine produced in their restaurant.

More than charming, Masseria Salamina is an ideal place for relaxation, exploration, and incredible food. Being a family-run business, the hosts were warm and welcoming, making our stay in Puglia a memorable one!

Mesogheo, Naples

Mesogheo is 45 minutes outside of Napoli and hour and a half south of Rome, yet it feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere, it feels like it's in another world completely. Alongside the dirt road leading in is century old, gnarled and twisted olive trunks and grape vines left to grow naturally. Rosemary the size of small trees creates the entrance to the courtyard of the restored farmhouse, where the owners reside above the welcoming kitchen and small library. At the base of the Camposaro mountain, Mesogheo has 10 separate rooms in three “dependences” and two swimming pools. Each room is exquisitely decorated with furnishings from all over the world, creating its own serene and private haven.

Everything seems to slow down upon entering Mesogheo and it soon becomes obvious that it is purely a reflection of the owners. The philosophy of the hospitality is inspired by an idea of familiarity. Nothing is imposed, yet everything is available.
Thank you, Fabrizio and Lucia, for an amazing time spent in your world.